I used my handy dandy Wixey digital protractor to draw all the angels.

Wixey 8'' Digital Protractor

I also use it to set up the angles on my miter saw.

I made a simple jig to guide my palm router for cutting the seat back notch.

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Bosch Colt™ Variable-Speed Palm Router Kit

Make shallow cut passes until you get to 3/4" deep. Repeat for the other piece.

Chair Modification: I discovered that four screws do not hold the back as solid as I'd like. I suggest instead of drilling counterbore holes for the back supports that you drill them for either carriage bolts or large lag screws.

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Draw a radius on the top of each chair. Again I used a paint can for the radius.

Be sure you cut the radius on the front side of the piece, that would be on the longer edge.

Now cut the back leg as shown.

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The front leg is cut square at 23" long.

Drill a 1/4" hole 3/4" up from the bottom and in the center of each leg. These will be the mounting holes for the hangers.

Next comes the real fun, cutting all the slats. Using 1" cedar, actual size 3/4", I cut 14 pieces for the bottom and 15 for the back. Each piece progressively gets larger as it goes to the back or bottom.

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Notice that the back has one more 1" piece.

Depending on the type of cedar you purchased one side may be rough. That will be the back side of the seat and back.

Roundover the front edges and ends of all the slats.

You may have noticed in the picture above that I am routing in the wrong direction. It is called an "up cut" and I use that to prevent chip-out on splintery woods like cedar. Set the fence so that you are removing only about 1/3 of the full cut. Then move the fence in another third and make a second pass. Move the fence in again to where the wood just misses the bearing on the router bit. Then make a final pass in the correct direction with the piece against the bearing. Be careful doing this and hang onto the wood because the router bit is going with the wood it has a tendance to pull the wood out of your hand.

Set up a fence with a stop on the drill press. I marked the center of every piece on one end and used that mark to adjust the width of my fence.

The seat holes are 1 11/16" in from the end and the seat backs are 2 3/4" in.
First drill a 3/8" counterbore 3/8" deep using a forstner bit.

22-Piece Forstner Bit Set

Once all the pieces are counterbored drill a countersink hole using a countersink bit with a drill for a #8 screw.

Rockler/Insty-Drive Tapered Drill Bits and Countersinks

Now it's time to start putting things together. Assemble the sides of the seat together using glue and #8 - 1 5/8" deck screws.

Space the sides 18" apart.

Be sure to measure the front and back. I also used a square to make sure that the ends aree square to the sides.

Start at the back with the largest slats.

Use a 1/8" spacer between the back and seat slats. Screw them in using #8 - 1 5/8" deck screws.
For the remainder of the slats I used a 15/64" piece of wood for spacing.

I measured in from the end of each board to make sure it is centered and then screwed it in.

Now I measured and marked where my legs were going to go and cut those slats to match.

Assemble the legs to the seat.

The front leg should sit 9 3/4" from the bottom of the seat to the bottom of the leg. Be sure to square the leg before you glue and screw it with #8 - 1 5/8" deck screws. Drill, counterbore and countersink four mounting holes the same way you did the slats.

To install the back legs remove three screws, the two back ones and the upper inside one.

Use a square to align the bottoms of the legs. Glue and screw the back legs on using #8 - 3" deck screws.

Cut out the arm rests from 1" X 6" cedar.

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Roundover both sides of the arm rests and sand. Do not roundover the notch at the back of the arm rest.

Drill two pocket holes in the top of each leg to attach the arms.

Kreg Jig® K3 Master System with FREE Large Face Clamp! ($29.99 Value!)

Now the most fun begins, cutting plugs and then flush cutting them on the chair.

I used my handy dandy 3/8" plug cutter and made over 160 plugs for the two chairs.

3-Pc. Self-Centering Plug Cutter Set

I cut pieces from a 2" X 6" a little over 1" long and drilled the plugs into the end grain.

After they were all drilled I cut the bottoms off on the band saw.

Apply a small amount of glue to each hole and gently tap the plugs until they stop.

Once the glue is dried use a flush cut saw to carefully cut off the tops of each plug.

Dozuki Dovetail/Flush-Cut Saw

I bought some cedar plugs for the pocket holes to fill them.

Sand everything and you're ready for a finish, or not. Some people like to apply an oil or stain to cedar and some people like it to take on that silver aged look without any finish. I prefer the stain look and used Penofin Western Red Cedar stain. It's a good protectant and I like the color. I found it at Ace Hardware.

I attached the hangers with 1/4" hardware using a carriage head bolts for the outside legs and round head phillips bolts for the inside base.

The hangers came from Rockler and work quite nicely.

Glider Bracket Hardware
This unique hardware lets you turn virtually any bench into a glider! Measures 7-1/2" between centers with 1-1/4" offset. With rust-resistant plating and ball bearing pivot points. Mounts with common 1/4" dia. bolts (not included). Set of four. Glider Bracket Hardware

That's about it. We hope you liked this project. If you build it and your friends ask where you got such a clever idea, please tell them that you got it at RunnerDuck.com.