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Round Patio Table

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This project appeared in our December 1, 2007 Newsletter.


Round Patio Table

Here's another neat project sent to us by Bob B. from Glen Rose, Texas about 60 miles south west of Fort Worth. Bob made a couple of different versions of this table and liked this one the best. They are very stable and heavy so they do not tip over easily, even with rambunctious kids around.

Here's what you'll need:

  • Table Top - (2) 2" X 6" X 8' Cedar
  • Legs and Base - (1) 2" X 6" X 8' Cedar
  • Table Bottom - (1) 2" X 2" X 4' Cedar
  • 1 3/4" #6 deck screws
  • Outdoor glue
First make the top by ripping the edges of the 2" X 6" just enough to square them up. I like using a Freud Glue Line Rip blade but then I don't have a jointer.

Freud® LM74R Glue Line Rip Blade
Freud® LM74R Glue Line Rip Blade


This will make the wood slightly smaller than the 5 1/2" we show below but it all works out.

Bob chose to use this Shiplap joint but you could also use a tongue and groove joint, splined joint or biscuit joint.
Set your tablesaw fence to 3/4" and cut the opposing edges of the board as show.
Cut the boards to length as follows:

  • (3) Middle boards - 30"
  • (2) Intermediate boards - 27"
  • (2) Outside boards - 19 1/2"
Glue and clamp the top, carefully centering all the boards in both directions. Bob has a large strap clamp that worked pretty good for him plus additional pipe clamps. To make sure that the top is flat I would use some scrap wood and clamp across the top holding the pieces flush.
Now cut the table top into a 30" circle. Bob made a jig to use his band saw. It was a large table addition to the saw with a pin located 30" away from the blade. A small hole in the bottom of the table went into the pin and you rotate the table through the blade.
You can also use a saber saw following a line drawn using a string or stick secured in the middle of the bottom.
Round over the edges of the top using a 3/8" roundover router bit.

Round Over/Beading Bit SetRound Over/Beading Bit Set
Includes bearing to convert all bits from roundover to beading, giving you six options! Includes 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" radius bits.

Round Over/Beading Bit Set

The base of the table is made by cutting four 2" X 2" X 12".

Drill 3/8" diameter holes 1/2" deep and drill the centers on through for the #6 deck screws. We'll plug these holes later.
Attach all four pieces together as shown below.

Pre-drill and countersink the screw holes.
Attach this assembly to the bottom of the table using screws and glue.


Here's a bottom view of the finished table.

Next we'll make the legs.
Cut pieces 2 1/2" wide and 27 1/2" long.
Using a taper jig like we showed you how to make in our April 9, 2004 newsletter, taper the legs from 2 1/2" on one end to 1 1/2" on the other.

Precision Taper JigPrecision Taper Jig
Or you can purchase a taper jig like this Precision Taper Jig

Precision Taper Jig

On the wide end of the leg measure back 3/4" on one edge and cut the angle as shown above, this will give you approximately 15 degrees.
Round the narrow end of the leg using a band saw, scroll saw and belt sander. Be sure to maintain the length since you don't want your table to wobble.
Smooth or round over all the edges except the top leaving the top end square.

The base for the legs is made the same as the bottom of the table.
Cut four pieces 2 1/2" X 15 1/2".

Round over one end with a band saw or saber saw.
Drill holes as shown using a 3/8" bit 1/2" deep. Drill through the centers for #6 deck screws. We'll plug the holes later.
Assemble the base the same as the table bottom above.
With the table top upside down attach the legs to the bottom of the table using glue and screws.
Attach the base to the legs using glue and screws.


It should now look something like this.

Plug the holes with 3/8" dowels or make your own plugs using these nifty Taper Plug Cutters.

Hex Shank Tapered Plug CuttersHex Shank Tapered Plug Cutters
Precision-ground edges and flute design cut precise edges that don’t require sanding! Suitable for both soft and hardwoods...

Hex Shank Tapered Plug Cutters

All that's left is a good sanding and finish. A good exterior stain and varnish will look really good on this table. Some people like to let cedar just turn gray over time. Either way this table will really look great on your deck.

Thanks Bob for sharing another great project with the RunnerDuck readers.

That's about it. We hope you liked this project. If you build it and your friends ask where you got such a clever idea, please tell them that you got it at RunnerDuck.com.



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